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October 05, 2007

In Amelia Earhart’s Shoes: Return to Nikumaroro

by Thomas F. King

Readers of Amelia Earhart’s Shoes: Is the Mystery Solved? (Altamira 2004) may be interested in the results of this year’s return expedition to Nikumaroro in the Phoenix Islands, Republic of Kiribati. The expedition, like all our work in pursuit of the elusive aviation pioneer, was sponsored by The International Group for Historic Aircraft Recovery (TIGHAR); information on the work and our ongoing analyses can be found  on TIGHAR’s website, www.tighar.org.

To recap briefly: We hypothesize that Amelia Earhart and Fred Noonan, when they disappeared on July 2 1937, made their way to Nikumaroro and landed safely, but were not seen by the search planes that flew over a week later, and eventually died on the island. We’ve found a variety of pieces of evidence supporting this hypothesis – airplane parts in the ruins of Nikumaroro’s colonial village, anecdotal accounts of wreckage and human bones being found, a detailed official British government account of the discovery of a partial human skeleton and a woman’s shoe at the southeast end of the island in 1940, our own discovery of a woman’s shoe from the 1930s, and so on.

This year we had two major goals on the island we fondly call “Niku.” One was to look at a portion of the old colonial village (1938-1963) where we’d found plane parts in the past, and where the village carpenter shop stood before it blew away in a storm in about 1990. The other was to give serious attention to the “Seven Site” at the other end of the island, which we think is where a partial human skeleton was found in 1940 along with a sextant box, a Benedictine bottle, a woman’s shoe, and other interesting artifacts; we think this may have been Amelia Earhart’s skeleton. Our physical anthropologist, Kar Burns, was also to carry out a taphonomic experiment – putting out the remains of a pig and seeing how fast and in what directions the coconut crabs and strawberry hermit crabs took its parts away. Biologist/forester Josh Gillespie was to identify key tree species to allow construction of a general vegetation map. Finally, we wanted to do some detailed topographic mapping of the reef where we think Earhart landed her Lockheed Electra, to permit detailed hindcasting of tidal conditions there at the time she would have landed. Remarkably enough, we got all these things done.

We flew to Nadi in Fiji on July 14th, and from the nearby port of Lautoka embarked on the motor-sailor Nai’a for the five-day trip to Niku. We were 16 in all – the basic TIGHAR team, a videographer, and the representative of the government of Kiribati. The trip was uneventful but for various cases of seasickness; the weather was good but the swells were pretty high. We landed as usual in the ship’s inflatables, going ashore every morning and returning to the ship in the evening. Gary Quigg took charge of work in the village, while I ran the Seven Site project. As it turned out, members of the ship’s crew helped a lot on both projects; they said they were bored aboard, as it were, and wanted some shore time.

The village work involved clearing largish areas of coconut deadfall, metal detecting, mapping and excavating test units. Suffice it to say that Gary’s crew were able to define and pretty definitively survey the carpenter’s shop and the debris field created downwind when it blew away, and they collected a number of bronze bushings and other parts that just might have been salvaged from an airplane. These are currently being cleaned and catalogued at TIGHAR Central in Wilimington, DE and sent out for various kinds of analysis.

At the Seven Site, we first had to clear a lot of scaevola, a nasty shrub, in a way that wouldn’t mess up the site surface. We accomplished this using a lot less of the traditional tools (bush knives and chainsaws), in favor of long-handled pneumatic loppers powered by dive tanks; they worked remarkably well (See airphoto). We then undertook a variety of excavations, metal detecting, and surface scanning for teeth and bones using a solar-powered daylight ultraviolet scanner designed by team member John Clauss. We also did kite aerial photography (KAP) to help document the site in its environment (hence the photo below), and used a robotic total station to update and correct the site map prepared in 2001. The UV scanner worked but didn’t get us any teeth or bones. The total station strained our technological competence but gave us what we needed, and the KAP worked great, as did our state-of-the-art PVC sifting screens. We excavated several fire features that will help us (we hope) figure out what sort of person was camping at the site – lots of fish, bird, and turtle bone for dietary analysis. And we found some things – a zipper, a snap perhaps from an article of clothing, part of a small pocket knife, a piece of beveled glass that may be from a small mirror – that aren’t easily associated with use of the site by Gilbertese colonists and U.S. Coast Guardsmen, the two groups known to have been there at various times. One of the fire features, too, contained the broken and mostly melted remains of two bottles, one of them apparently a heavy brown bottle similar to Benedictine. Lots of analysis to be done there, too.

And the crabs duly carried away bones, posing for time-lapse photography, while the total station made it possible to obtain detailed elevation and topographic data on the reef.

So as usual, we didn’t exactly find what we went out looking for, but we did find other stuff, and we actually did pretty much everything we planned to do. We then sailed uneventfully to Apia, Samoa, flew to Nadi, and then flew back to the States. Good weather the whole time (130 degrees f. recorded on the Seven Site, but a pleasant breeze) and it was great to have one more visit to the island.

We’re grateful as always to the financial sponsors who made the trip feasible, to our faithful shipping sponsor Federal Express, and to the various people and corporations who donated equipment and services – Brooks Leffler and David Wheeler for KAP technology, the Sokkia Corporation for total stations, Stihl Inc. for chain saws and hand tools, and Focus Design for screens.

Analysis of the material and data we brought home will take awhile, but results will be forthcoming on the TIGHAR website and in other media.
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The Seven Site under excavation, after much lopping

 

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Sunrise over Nikumaroro

 

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What we had to dig through – typical coral rubble “soil.” The PVC screens, however, donated by Focus Design (http://www.focusdesign.org/), were wonderfully durable despite their light weight.

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Comments

What a fascinating story. It sounds like this mystery is closer to being solved.
Looking forward to the update. I'll have to go check out tighar.org next.
Mike

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